Udaipur Diaries: Four Days, Four Nights, and a City That Stole My Heart

Some cities impress you with their grandeur. Others make you fall in love with the little things: the morning chill, a quiet lakeside walk, a plate of chaat, or a stranger who takes a moment to share a story. Udaipur did all of that, and then some.

Travelling without an elaborate agenda makes a trip infinitely more memorable. You wake up, step outside, follow a road that looks inviting, and let the city decide what your day should look like. That, in essence, was my Udaipur holiday.

I arrived on a Sunday afternoon and flew back on Thursday, giving myself four nights and a little over four days in the City of Lakes. Travelling with my five-year-old daughter meant balancing exploration with rest, sightseeing with work commitments, and the occasional food-related negotiation. But it also meant experiencing the city through the unfiltered wonder of a child.

We stayed at Triply Hotel Blue Moon, conveniently located around the Moti Magri area. With a rented scooty, comfortable walking shoes, and absolutely no shopping agenda, we were ready to explore.

And Udaipur? Well, it had plans of its own.

Day 1: A Gentle Introduction to the City of Lakes

Fateh Sagar Lake and Fateh Sagar Promenade

After checking into our hotel on Sunday afternoon, I wasn’t particularly keen on rushing into a sightseeing marathon. We had just arrived, and I wanted our first encounter with Udaipur to be a leisurely one.

So, we set out for Fateh Sagar Lake, barely a kilometre away from our hotel. And what a delightful walk it turned out to be!

There is something incredibly therapeutic about exploring a city on foot. You notice things you would otherwise miss from the window of a car: the changing architecture, the little shops, the people going about their day, and that unmistakable feeling of being somewhere new.

We strolled along the Fateh Sagar Promenade, soaking in the atmosphere. There is an aquarium in the vicinity, but neither of us was particularly interested, so we gave it a miss. Instead, we walked towards the Neemach Mata Temple Ropeway area, where we stopped for some delicious chaat.

We returned to the hotel, ordered room service, and called it a day. Udaipur had made a rather lovely first impression. And I had a feeling this was only the beginning.

Day 2: Sunrise, Serene Lakes, Royal Grandeur and Winding Lanes

Lake Pichola and Doodh Talai

The next morning, we were up early. If there is one thing I have learnt about travelling, it is that mornings are often the best time to discover a city. The crowds are thinner, the weather is kinder, and everything seems to move at a more unhurried pace.

We headed towards Lake Pichola, stopping briefly at Doodh Talai along the way.

Doodh Talai wasn’t quite as pristine as I would have liked, but the architectural details around the area were lovely. The traditional chhatris, or domed pavilions, and ornate architectural features offered plenty of opportunities for photographs. Naturally, we stopped to click a few.

And then came Lake Pichola.

Oh, that morning!

The lake was almost still, with only a few boats gliding across its surface. The sun had just begun to rise, casting a delicate golden glow over the water and the surrounding architecture. There was hardly any pedestrian movement, and for a brief moment, it felt as though the city had decided to keep its most beautiful secret to itself.

I stood there, taking it all in, and thought about how rarely we allow ourselves to experience places without rushing through them. Lake Pichola didn’t need to entertain us. It didn’t need to put on a show. It simply existed in all its quiet magnificence, and that was enough.

Jagdish Temple

From the lake, we made our way to Jagdish Temple.

Visiting the temple early in the morning was another excellent decision. The atmosphere was peaceful, there was no rush, and we could appreciate the architecture and the spiritual ambience without having to navigate a sea of visitors.

There is something grounding about beginning a day at a temple, especially when you are travelling. For a few moments, the usual mental checklist disappears. You are simply present. And then, of course, came the very practical business of breakfast!

Jagdish Restaurant: Udaipur’s Sweet Poha

Right in front of Jagdish Temple was Jagdish Restaurant, where we stopped to sample Udaipur’s famous sweet poha.

Now, poha is generally something I associate with a savoury breakfast, so the sweet version was an interesting little culinary detour. Food, after all, is one of the easiest ways to get acquainted with a place. You don’t always need a guided tour; sometimes, a local dish tells you plenty about regional tastes and traditions.

With breakfast taken care of, we headed to our next stop.

Saheliyon Ki Bari

Saheliyon Ki Bari, the Garden of the Maidens, was an absolute pleasure to explore.

The historic garden, originally designed for the royal women accompanying a princess, is known for its greenery, fountains, marble features and shaded pathways. It is one of those places where you can happily spend time wandering around without feeling the need to hurry.

We strolled through the garden, clicked photographs, admired the surroundings, and simply enjoyed being there. I think this was when Udaipur began to reveal another side of itself to me. Beyond the famous lakes and palaces, it had these little pockets of calm where time seemed to slow down. We returned to the hotel, freshened up, had breakfast, and took some time to rest before heading out again.

Monsoon Palace: A Ride into the Clouds

Our next destination was Monsoon Palace, also known as Sajjangarh Palace, perched high on the Bansdara Hills.

We had rented a scooty for the trip, and I must confess that riding around Udaipur became one of my favourite parts of the holiday. There is something liberating about having the freedom to take a turn simply because a road looks interesting. You feel less like a tourist following a prescribed route and more like a traveller finding her own way.

The uphill ride to Monsoon Palace was moderately challenging but not particularly intimidating. We made our way up through the winding roads, enjoying the changing landscape as we gained altitude.

One thing to keep in mind, though: mobile network connectivity can be patchy on the way, so it is sensible to have your route sorted beforehand.

The palace itself has a fascinating history. Maharana Sajjan Singh originally envisioned it as an astronomical centre, partly intended to observe the monsoon clouds. It also served as a monsoon retreat and hunting lodge. Today, it is best known for its commanding position and spectacular panoramic views of Udaipur, its lakes and the surrounding Aravalli Hills.

And the views! They were worth every twist and turn of that uphill drive.

We were fortunate with the weather. The air was pleasantly cool, the city seemed to be in no hurry, and there was hardly any crowd. Udaipur greeted us with a delicious chill, and the palace felt wonderfully unhurried.

We stopped at a small café near the palace to try some lemon soda before beginning our descent.

One practical tip: the café is a convenient place to pause, but don’t expect a sprawling food court. Keep your expectations simple and enjoy the setting.

We returned to the hotel for lunch and decided to stay indoors through the afternoon. The sun was stronger by then, and I had no intention of turning a holiday into an endurance test.

City Palace Market and Hathi Pol Market

By evening, we were ready to venture out again.

We explored the market around City Palace and made our way towards Hathi Pol Market, riding our scooty through the city before parking at a convenient spot and continuing on foot.

For perhaps the first time on a holiday, I had absolutely no shopping agenda. No list of things to buy. No pressure to find the perfect outfit, handicraft or home décor piece. I wanted souvenirs, certainly, but I was more interested in absorbing the atmosphere than in bringing half the market home with me. We wandered through the lanes, browsed the shops, visited a few small temples along the way, and watched the city carry on with its evening rituals.

The colours, the textures, the traditional merchandise and the general bustle offered a glimpse into Udaipur’s everyday life beyond its grand tourist attractions. Dinner was at Burger Farm, conveniently close to our hotel. We returned afterwards, tired but content, and called it a night.

Day 3: Bahubali Hills, A Little Adventure and a Palace After Dark

Bahubali Hills: The Ride Was Half the Adventure

We began the next day with another early-morning scooty ride around the neighbourhood. At around 6:30 a.m., the city was still peaceful, the air was crisp, and the roads were wonderfully inviting.

By 8:30 a.m., we were on our way to Bahubali Hills. The ride to Bahubali Hills was a highlight in its own right. Once we reached the area, we had a short trek ahead of us. With my daughter accompanying me, it took us around 30–40 minutes to make our way to the top. And what a view awaited us!

The expansive landscape, the hills, the water and the sheer openness of the place made the climb worthwhile. It was one of those moments when you instinctively stop talking because the scenery deserves your undivided attention.

There is a small entry fee of ₹10 per person, while children can enter free, according to our experience.

On the way down, we stopped for a plate of Maggi. Because what is a hill adventure in India without Maggi? Some traditions are practically sacred.

We returned to the hotel, freshened up, had breakfast, and took a break. I had work commitments to attend to, and my daughter needed some downtime too.

One of the things I have learnt about travelling with a young child is that a successful itinerary isn’t necessarily the one that squeezes in the maximum number of attractions. It is the one that leaves enough room for everyone to enjoy themselves.

And then came the highlight of the evening.

City Palace: A Royal Affair Under the Lights

We decided to visit City Palace in the evening, and I can confidently say that it was one of the best decisions we made on this trip.

I have visited Jaipur and Jodhpur before, exploring their magnificent forts and palaces under the bright afternoon sun. And while there is certainly a charm to seeing these structures in daylight, I had never really experienced a palace quite like this after dark.

Illuminated against the evening sky, City Palace looked entirely different.

The architecture seemed more dramatic, the intricate details stood out beautifully, and the entire complex acquired an almost cinematic quality. The warm lights accentuated the palace’s grandeur, making it feel as though we had stepped into a scene from another era. What made the experience even better was the lack of crowds. We had so much room to explore at our own pace, and my daughter could run around, enjoy the open spaces and pose for as many photographs as her heart desired.

There was no frantic manoeuvring around tour groups, no waiting endlessly for a photograph without strangers in the background, and no feeling that we needed to hurry along to make space for the next visitor. We could simply enjoy the palace. I loved watching my daughter explore the surroundings with that beautiful, uninhibited curiosity children possess. They don’t need to know the architectural history of a place to appreciate its magic. Sometimes, a grand staircase or an illuminated courtyard is enough.

And that evening, City Palace gave us plenty of magic.

Afterwards, we spent some time strolling through the nearby market on foot before returning to the hotel.

Dinner was ordered through Swiggy.

Travelling with a five-year-old comes with its own logistical considerations, especially when it comes to food. Restaurant menus can be unpredictable, and the spices and gravies that adults happily enjoy may not always work for little ones. Swiggy turned out to be a lifesaver. We could communicate our instructions, and the restaurants were kind enough to accommodate our request for food without added spice. It may not sound like a particularly glamorous travel anecdote, but for a parent travelling with a young child, a cooperative restaurant can feel like a five-star experience in itself!

Day 4: Chance Encounters, Heritage Walks and a Sunset to Remember

Gangaur Ghat: When Travel Introduces You to People

By the fourth day, we had planned to take things easy and spend some time soaking up the Udaipur sunshine. But if you have ever travelled with someone who enjoys exploring, you will know that plans are often little more than polite suggestions.

By around 11 a.m., we had spontaneously decided to head out again, this time towards Gangaur Ghat.

The ghat was lovely to explore, with its steps leading down to the water and its old-world surroundings. But one of the most memorable parts of our visit had little to do with the architecture.

We met Sherin, a traveller from New Zealand who was exploring Rajasthan.

We struck up a conversation, and she was sweet enough to spend some time chatting with us about her travels. There is something wonderful about these fleeting connections you make on the road. You may never meet the person again, and the conversation may last only a few minutes, but for that brief period, your worlds overlap.

I have always believed that travelling is as much about people as it is about places. The monuments may tell you about a city’s past, but the people you meet along the way often become part of your own travel story.

Sherin was one of those lovely, unexpected additions to ours.

Bagore Ki Haveli: A Glimpse into Royal Rajasthan

Right beside Gangaur Ghat stood Bagore Ki Haveli, our next stop.

Built in the eighteenth century by Amar Chand Badwa, the prime minister of Mewar, the haveli is a beautiful example of traditional Rajasthani architecture. With its ornate balconies, intricate carvings, courtyards and historic interiors, it offers a glimpse into the domestic life and artistic traditions of the region’s royal households.

The haveli houses displays of traditional costumes, artefacts, decorative objects and other elements of Rajasthan’s cultural heritage. It is the sort of place where you can spend time looking at the details rather than merely admiring the building from outside.

And yet, what made our visit particularly special was something far simpler.

There was hardly anyone around.

We had the entire haveli almost to ourselves, which meant we could explore without feeling hurried or crowded. We could pause wherever something caught our attention, admire the architecture and let our curiosity lead the way.

I cannot emphasise enough how much this changed the experience.

There is a difference between visiting a historic monument and actually having the space to experience it. When you are constantly navigating crowds, you tend to focus on moving through a place. When you have it largely to yourself, you begin to notice its atmosphere.

The quiet courtyards, the intricate details, the play of light and shadow, and the sense of history embedded in the walls all become more apparent. Bagore Ki Haveli gave us exactly that kind of experience. By around 4:30 p.m., we were ready to return to the hotel. We rested for a while, took a nap, and prepared for one last outing.

Fateh Sagar Lake: One Last Sunset

For our final evening in Udaipur, we returned to Fateh Sagar Lake.

It felt fitting to end the trip where we had begun, at the lake that had welcomed us so gently on our first afternoon.

We wanted nothing elaborate. Just a beautiful sunset, some ice cream, cold coffee and the pleasure of being outdoors without any particular agenda.

And Udaipur delivered.

As the light began to soften and the sky changed colours, the lake seemed to take on a different personality. The water reflected the changing hues, the surroundings grew quieter in their own way, and the entire scene felt like a fitting farewell to a city that had given us so much in such a short time.

We sat there, enjoying our ice cream and cold coffee, watching the evening unfold.

And perhaps that was the loveliest part of the entire trip: realising that I didn’t need to keep doing things to feel that I was making the most of my holiday.

We returned to the hotel, knowing that we would be leaving the next day. Thursday’s flight awaited us, and with it, the inevitable return to routines, responsibilities and the familiar rhythm of everyday life.

I left feeling as though I had discovered a place I would want to return to—not because I had unfinished sightseeing to do, but because I knew there were still mornings to spend by its lakes, roads to wander along, and sunsets to watch without looking at the clock.

And that, to me, is the mark of a city worth falling in love with.

Until next time, Udaipur. Keep your lakes sparkling, your mornings peaceful, and your sunsets spectacular. I’ll be back.